"Torta di San Biagio": a winter delight halfway between Mantua and Lake Garda.



“Hiersera arrivassimo quì in Capriana, 
per una via sassosa et aspra, 
pure assai dilettevole per la bellissima vista 
di colline et campagne piene d’amandoli, et olivi”.

“Last evening we arrived here, in Cavriana, travelling along a way that was stony and rough, but also delightful for the beautiful view of hills and fields, full of almond and olive trees”.
These words, from a letter written by Isabella d’Este in 1535, describe one of the many visits of the Marchioness to the Lake Garda Hillside.

The letter was sent from Cavriana, a small village on the mantuan hills, close to the Lake. Here Isabella had one of her leisure residences: you can still see the name of Isabella carved on a fireplace architrave in the local museum.

On the hills of Cavriana – today as in the times of Isabella – many almond trees grow, and almonds are the main ingredient of a very special cake, which is cooked every year in Cavriana, on the occasion of the feast of the local patron saint: San Biagio (Saint Blaise).

The "Torta di San Biagio" ("Cake of Saint Blaise") is a tart, stuffed with an almond-filling, and made with a special pastry, which has not eggs, but white wine in. The filling is composed with almonds, eggs, chopped chocolate, anise and sugar. The top of the cake is decorated with a grill made of pastry, cut in lozenges, which shows the interior filling.

Every year, on February 3rd, an enormous "Cake of Saint Blaise" - with more of 3 meters of diameter - is cut on the main square of Cavriana.



If Isabella d'Este had been the Duchess of Milan...


The blind Fortune played her game with the lives of Isabella and Beatrice d'Este. Princesses, sisters, patrons of the arts, rivals. And Muses of Leonardo da Vinci.
In the year 1480, two ambassadors - one from Mantua and one from Milan - reached the Castle of Ferrara. They both had the same mission: to represent their Lords, asking for the hand of the six-years-old six-year-old Isabella d'Este, daughter of Ercole, the Duke of Ferrara. The ambassador of the Gonzagas, rulers of Mantua, arrived first. So the young Princess d'Este was betrothed to Francesco Gonzaga, heir of the ruling household of Mantua.
And the future Duke of Milan, Ludovico Sforza, had to content himself with an engagement to Beatrice, Isabella's younger sister.
Was this a joke of the Fates? Perhaps it was: in the following years Isabella had to complain more than one time, dreaming that once she might have had the destiny of her younger sister. But, in the end, Beatrice died young giving birth to a stillborn son, and the good star of Ludovico soon faded into disgrace.
How would the Milanese Renaissance have been, if Isabella d'Este had been the Duchess of the city? We can only speculate about this.
But something would have been exactly the same.



In many of the rooms of the Castello Sforzesco in Milan, we can still see the joined Coats of Arms of Ludovico Sforza and Beatrice d'Este. For example at the center of the ceiling of the Sala delle Asse, frescoed by Leonardo da Vinci. 
A similar impaled Coat of Arms appears above the Last Supper, in the central lunette. The same Sforza-Este Arms are also carved on a keystone in the cloister of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Another example is offered by an embroidered paliotto (altar frontispiece) now in the Sacro Monte in Varese, woven on the occasion of Ludovico and Beatrice's marriage.

If Isabella d'Este had become the wife of Ludovico, and so Duchess of Milano, all these Coats of Arms would have been exactly the same. And we can imagine what kind of thoughts may have crossed Isabella's mind, every time she looked at her sister's Coat of Arms.

 

What a Christmas Gift! The best review ever!


Santa Claus has chosen VISITMANTUA for a pre-xmas city break. What an experience! Click here for is review about us.

VISITMANTUA - Proudly guiding Santa Claus around Mantua!



Christmas in Mantua: Santa (Lucia) is coming to town!



In Italy Santa Claus is not the only Christmas gift-giver. In many cities of Italy the kids have their presents delivered by other legendary beings, who visit different areas of Italy in different occasions.
The Christ Child (Christkind) delivers his presents in the area of Milan, and in the northen part of Lombardy, close to the Swiss canton Ticino.
Saint Nicholas visits the area of Friuli on December 6th, and the famous Befana is awaited in many areas, mostly in the central and southern Italy, on January 6th.
In the area of Mantua (and in Brescia, Bergamo, Verona, Parma and Modena as well). the kids are awarded with gifts by Santa Lucia (Saint Lucy).
According to the tradition, in the days before her feast, Saint Lucia descends from heaven and visits the humans. Escorted by a faithful donkey, Lucia goes around every house, and observes the behavior of every child. The children have to be careful: it is forbidden to see the Saint! So Lucia warns the kids about her arrival, ringing a small bell during every visit. If children break the ban and look to the Saint, they will be punished: Lucia will throw some ash in their eyes, making them go blind.
Eventually, during the night between the 12th and 13th December, Santa Lucia pays her last yearly visit to earth, entering in all the houses. Here the Saint finds a little breakfast, prepared for her by the kids, and a bowl of hay for her donkey. In return, Lucia leaves some gifts and sweets for the nice kids. But those who have been naughty will find just ash and coal.

Laura Pausini chooses Mantua



Laura Pausini, the most famous Italian singer in the world, has just released the official video of her brand new single "Se non te"  ("Sino a ti" in the Spanish version).
The music video for the song, recorded in September 2013, shows the love story of Pausini's parents. Although the plot is set in Solarolo, in Emilia-Romagna, the filming was actually shooted in Castiglione delle Stiviere, Medole, and Gastel Goffredo, three villages in the province of Mantua.


The scene in which Pausini's father works in chemist's shop was shooted in the "Farmacia Romagnolo", in Castiglione delle Stiviere.

The scene in which Pausini's mother is sewing, was filmed in the "Casa-Sartoria Pezzini", a tailor's house in Castel Goffredo.
The wedding party scene is set at the "Ristorante da Laura" in Perosso, a suburb of Castel Goffredo.


The theatre shown in the music video is the Theatre of Medole.

Thank you Laura, for loving Mantua!

Scenes in Castiglione delle Stiviere


Scenes in Medole




Corte Eremo: a Haunted Halloween in Mantua


Halloween is not a local tradition in Mantua, or, more generally speaking, in Italy. But this year a great Halloween Party is going to rock the scene in Mantua. The mind behind the party is Clark Lawrence, president of the  "Reading Retreats in Rural Italy", a cultural association based in Corte Eremo, Mantua.
Corte Eremo is a very special place: everything a travelling art lover is looking for, is here to be found: thousands of books, some of which antique and rare, beautiful paintings, and even three pianos! And – this is the real Clark’s signature! – hundreds of different plants and flowers, growing and blooming in the garden.
But, on Halloween, Clark is able to transform this place in something completely different: a cimitery, many scares, and dozens of monsters, zombies and vampires will be waiting for the guests of Corte Eremo.
Want to join this Haunted Halloween? Contact info@corteeremo.com

Halloween 2013 will be also the last chance to see the amazing photography exhibition of Sven Fennema, "Poetry of Yesteryear" at Corte Eremo!

Maybe it is not a painting by Leonardo, but it is certainly a portrait of Isabella

As an art historian, specialized on Isabella d'Este, I've been asked by the local press to share on the "Gazzetta di Mantova" my first opinions about a recently found painting, thought to be a portrait of Isabella painted by Leonardo. Here's a translation of my article in English. 

Lorenzo Bonoldi




It is well known that Leonardo da Vinci had started working on a portrait of Isabella d'Este. And, thanks to ancient documents, we also know that in the year 1500 Leonardo created two preparatory drawings, and a third version of the sketch was requested - and probably made - in 1501. 

THE COPIES OF THE DRAWING - Today six copies of the drawing are known: one in the Louvre, one in the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford, one in the British Museum, one in the Uffizi, and  two other copies of the Staatliche Sammlung Graphisches of Monaco of Bavaria.

However, amongst all many copies, only the one preserved in the Louvre in Paris is unanimously attributed by critics to the hand of Leonardo.

Such abundance of copies should be able to satisfy all the “fans of the Marchioness” – an expression created by Giovanni Agosti to describe all those scholars – like me –  madly in love with Isabella d'Este. But, actually, this is not enough: all of us, Isabella’s fanatics, are keeping a secret dream in our hearts. The same dream that Isabella d'Este pursued for so many years: see that profile, drawn by Leonardo da Vinci in charcoal, eventually turned into a real painting. 

THE PAINTING  - And what’s the better place to hold a secret dream, if not a security storage in Switzerland? And so, right there, in a Swiss deposit, amongst a collection of hundreds of pieces, the dream - or perhaps a mirage? – has come true. The news is fresh, and from the Italian press it was spread on the international newspapers. A sensational title was on “Sette", the magazine of Corriere della Sera: "Found after 500 years, the wonderful portrait by Leonardo da Vinci did for Isabella d'Este." And many people ask: "Really?". According to Carlo Pedretti the answer is "Yes". It has been reported that the opinion of this expert of Leonardo is favorable: the scholar sees with certainty, at least in the face of the portrait, the hand of the master. 

SURVEYS - The originality of the painting would seem to be also proven by scientific investigations. Amongst them also the famous test on carbon 14. However, in this case, cautions  are a must: the C14 dating indicates a very extensive period of time, between 1460 and 1650. And the examination provides with a dating of the materials with which the painting was done, not its execution. To put it briefly: the examination shows that the plants from which the oils used to paint the picture were derived, as well as the fibers of the canvas on which the portrait is painted, were alive between 1460 and 1650. 

A PORTRAIT TURNED INTO A SACRED IMAGE - Let's have a look at this mysterious portrait of Isabella. Same pose of the preparatory drawing, same profile, same type of dress. But there are also some differences:  a crown on her head, a palm leaf in her hand and a foreground object that looks like a wheel. In short: all the iconographic attributes of Saint Catherine of Alexandria.  The only missing thing is the halo. So this is a painting of Isabella d’Este dressed as Saint Catherine on the occasion of a strange Sacred Representation on Carnival? No: it seems that the palm leaf, the crown and the wheel - if it is a wheel – have been overpainted details, added at a later time in the aim to turn the portrait into a sacred image. This a practice it is pretty frequent in the history of art. An element proving this is an examination of the fluorescence, which – according to what the press reported  - has shown a closed book, painted under the added Saint Catherine’s wheel. This is an extremely interesting element: a closed book, in fact, is barely visible in the cartoon of the Louvre.

It’s good to remind that the drawing in the Louvre is more properly a cartoon in as much as the lines of the design are covered in a thick series of pinpricks which demonstrate how it had been prepared to transfer its outline onto another surface, using the technique of the 'spolvero' (pouncing).

THE CLOSED BOOK – With the passing of time, unfortunately, many details of the lines drawn by Leonardo went fading, but the series of pinpricks has preserved a clear trace of the original design by Leonardo: the closed book (a symbol of full knowledge),  that scientific investigations have shown under the " wheel "of the painting Swiss cardboard is also present in the Paris cartoon. And in the Oxford replica as well.

This is not the only element "disappeared" from the Louvre cartoon that comes back in the painting recently rediscovered. The lines of holes in the sheet also show that in the Paris cartoon the head of Isabella was covered by a veil. As in the Swiss painting. 

Also the v-neck shirts in a thin semitransparent fabric, covering the chest of the Marchioness appears in the Louvre cartoon. All these elements not only prove that the painting found in Switzerland comes from Leonardo's cartoon, but also that his maker has had in his hands the carton in ancient times, before these details started fading. 

PUPILS OF THE MASTER – This does not means that the painting recently found in Switzerland has been painted by Leonardo da Vinci. As I have recently demonstrated in my article appeared in the September issue of “Art and Dossier”, the italian magazine directed by Philippe Daverio, the Parisian cartoon has been used by one of the pupils of Leonardo to create one of the two musician angels, painted in the side panels of the Virgin of the Rocks. This clearly demonstrate that Leonardo's pupils had access to the cartoons of the Master, and in particular to the one for the portrait of Isabella d'Este.

Considering all of these elements, I do not think that, today, it is possible to say certainty “this painting is by Leonardo da Vinci”: the evident connection with the preparatory drawing, is not enough.

Along with the rest of the scholarly community – and with all the "fanatics of Isabella" – I will be patiently waiting for the opportunity to know all the results of the scientific investigations, hoping that others detailed images of the painting will be soon published, accompanied by x-rays, reflectographies and luminescence exams. 

NEC SPE NEC METU What, however, I feel I can say without hope and without fear (Nec spe nec metu, to quote one of the mottos of the Marchioness) is that the profile in the Swiss painting is the profile of Isabella d'Este.

And to, tell the truth, I have a hope in my heart: that this portrait of Isabella - if not by Leonardo, at least leonardesque - can soon arrive in Mantua for an exhibition. This would be an excellent opportunity, both for scholars and tourists. And the Marchioness would be very happy: the most ancient of her mottos, whose a record is preserved, is “so that I will live after death”. And, after centuries, we are still here, talking about her, and hoping to see - in Mantua! - her portrait. 
Lorenzo Bonoldi 
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